Brunch by the Sea With “David Eyre’s Pancake”

By: Alan Zox

The term “brunch” was coined in Britain over 100 years ago to describe a Sunday meal for  Saturday-night party- goers. The term has evolved to mean the wonderful meal we enjoy today between breakfast and lunch. It might be bacon and eggs, omelets and vegetables, or any number of lunch time dishes reflecting where the meal is taking place. 

On Cape Cod  seafood brunches are common in part because of the daily bounty of seafood readily available.  Of course any combination of complementary dishes work well for brunch type meals.  For example over the years I have come to love bagels, smoked salmon, cream cheese, red onion and tomato slices after breakfast and before lunch. Of course, sautéed kippers (herring) with caramelized onions are no less wonderful. I am told this is common fair in the UK and Scandinavia.  Another special brunch meal that doesn’t have to wait for Sunday to enjoy is soft scrambled eggs with strips of roasted and peeled poblano chile peppers. 

 But I have to say that David Eyre’s soufflé like pancake takes a backseat to no other breakfast or brunch feast, even though the competition is fierce.  Made popular 50 years ago by NYT food critique Craig Claiborne’s  original recipe and more recently by the current NYT Food Critique Amanda Hesser  “the dish (behaves like a soufflé), and deflates like pricked balloons, in their journey from the oven to the table…You must be quick,”  she tells us.  “Be sure to sprinkle them with lemon juice and cilantro (or parsley) as you go”.

David Eyre’s Soufflé like Pancake                               
(Adapted Version of Craig Claiborne’s Recipe)                                                                                                             
Serves 2-4                                                                 

Ingredients                                                                                                   
2 eggs                                                                                   
½ cup unbleached flour.                                                     
½ cup milk                                                                     
Pinch ground nutmeg                                                         
4 tbsp butter                                                                             
2 tbsp confectioners’ sugar                                               
¼ cup diced cilantro or parsley                                     
Juice of half a lemon

1. Preheat the oven to 425 F.  Next, in a mixing bowl, lightly beat eggs. Add flour, milk and nutmeg, and lightly beat until blended but still slightly lumpy.
2. Melt the butter in a 12-inch cast-iron skillet with a heatproof handle,  if possible, over medium-high heat. When very hot but not brown, pour in the batter. Bake in the oven until the “souffle like” pancake is billowing on the edges, and  is golden brown - about 15 minutes.
3. Working quickly, remove the pan from the oven and using a fine-mesh sieve, sprinkle with confectioner’s sugar. Return to the oven for 1 to 2 minutes. Sprinkle with lemon juice and serve with jam, pear butter or marmalade. 
4. Finally cut pie – like wedges for each of your guests. And perhaps to “gild the lilly” even further, that is to enhance what is already beautiful and excellent, include some crispy strips of bacon or some seaside Clam stuffies on the side.

Send comments or questions to Alan — azox86@gmail.com

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